The Tanuki is neither raccoon nor dog, but rather a strange mix of the
two that has long been a symbol of luck, prosperity and fortune in
Japan. However, even within Japan, the animal is elusive.
The day
started with the slow creep of the sun’s rays into the tatami room of an
Eastern Kyoto apartment. The Town Mouse was off to work, leaving this
Country Mouse to her own devices. Having lacked the time recently to do
the things she enjoyed, she took her bike down to the point at which the
Takano and Kamo rivers make union of their currents. There she visited
the local gardening shop, where she was able to procure soil for her
blueberry bush, tomato and bell pepper plants, as well as some varieties
of fire hued flowers. This she took back to her abode on the mountain
by use of some parts physical determination and some parts sheer luck.
Even after two hours of tilling the
earth to start the garden that would make the new house feel the true
home, the sun was high in the afternoon blue. Previously, this Country
Mouse had learned of a large temple complex at the top of Higashi-yama
(Eastern Mountain) and therefore she decided to make the trek up through
the mist and drizzle to see what lay there.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The road leading toward Tanukidani
traveled the curves of the mountain, and the path was lined with a stone
fence inscribed with the beautiful script of the mountain priests. In a
small outlet marked by a large boulder, a dip of flat land that could
be used as a resting area could be seen- Acala
is enshrined there. His stone body wreathed in red flame, a sword in
hand, the shadows which cast themselves over his face merely accentuated
the wrath of the god that ought not be tempted. Yet, despite that
intense gaze, fresh water was made ready for the weary traveler, though
there were signs forbidding dogs from progressing further. From this
point on, it was Tanuki territory.
The walk only got steeper, the mist
gathering until it was certain to be rain instead, and suddenly, under
an old and weathered monolith, there lay hundreds of figures of the
Tanuki, Japan’s elusive raccoon-dog. Armed with a hat (to brave the
sudden changes in life one experiences), his sake gourd and his engorged
testes (the source of his mojo, or magic-making) the Tanuki look out
upon travelers to this mountain with an expression of bemusement. After
they greet you, you have entered the mountain complex of the eclectics.
Small red tori gates wound up one side
of the stairwell, the aroma of freshly burning incense wafting down,
though there was nothing but the chorus of forest frogs within ear shot-
indeed, this Country Mouse found herself quite alone on the mountain
for the entire duration of her journey. After washing her body in
incense, it was time to continue up the stairs, wherein she came across
the statues of the seven gods of fortune
and the iron statue of the eclectic who founded the temple. At the
eclectic’s feet, hundreds of little straw sandals had been tied by other
pilgrims, gentle prayers of people seeking enlightenment. After passing
the statue, a small sign informs you that you have begun to ascend the
blessed path- 250 steps that will bring you closer to fortune and The
Way.
It is a long journey, but at the top
of those stairs there is a temple that rises out from the granite of the
mountain- Tanukidani. With architecture that resembles that of
Kiyomizadera, the temple has a majesty about it, and surrounded by
nothing but the falling water of a mountain stream and the forest,
ravens’ calls echo in the mist, completing the aura of the mountain’s
retreat.
Acala again appears, his statue placed
under the head of a small waterfall where travelers are encouraged to
wash their hands, mouths, and drink the clean, unadulterated water
before entering the complex. Of course the complex is usually closed-
this temple is still in use by the eclectics- but you can still use the
trails to ascend the mountain itself.
Rounding the final corner within the
complex is a wall of stone buddhas- buddhas with small pinwheels and
candles, bibs and red cloaks. These are the buddhas of lost children-
miscarried, aborted, stillborn and infants lost. In the quiet of the
mountain, a bib reading “I love Mom” is enough to bring tears to the
eyes.
The trail beyond the complex goes up
the mountain, the trail intermingling with the creek. The Country Mouse
wandered deep into the trail, following the markings of the buddhas, but
eventually, it seemed that a different trail had opened up, and she
took that one instead. Progressively, this trail narrowed, as if it was
not used frequently, and eventually, signs began appearing that this was
not a human trail at all, but one belonging to an animal.
Droppings, broken branches and impressions in the soil helped along the theory, though she didn’t
turn back- just a little further and she might be able to see the Kyoto
skyline. However, a flash of ivory caught her eye, and looking down, in
the clearing just before the trees cleared, were bones. The bones could
have belonged to any number of animal- a deer, a boar (for they still
roam wild in the mountains) or a Tanuki. The Country Mouse tread
carefully the rest of the way, and after getting her view of the city,
she rushed back down the mountain, the sky opening as she did so, and a
torrent of rain and thunder following. So ended the journey to
Tanukidani, at least that time.